Style Points is a weekly column about how fashion intersects with the wider world.
For years, street-style peaco*cks would be stationed outside runway shows as New York Fashion Week took over the city—and Johnny Cirillo was not there. “Fashion week would be going on and I would just be on Bedford Avenue walking up and down,” his camera in tow, he recalls, “because I liked the idea of [documenting] the regular 9 to 5 person coming and going to work and the grocery store.” He wanted to see people in what they actually wore, “not what they wanted to be seen in,” he says. “Carrying a pizza box or walking their dog, but looking awesome.”
One of the images in Johnny Cirillo’s new book Watching New York.
Nowadays, Cirillo does shoot some fashion week street style. But he’s best known for the more unfiltered looks he documents on his Instagram account, Watching New York (his followers now number 1.3 million.) Cirillo calls himself “the people’s paparazzi,” and he is one of a handful of photographers currently reimagining street style in a more quotidian direction. He captures the stylish essence of one of America’s few walkable cities; while the rest of the country has their cars, we have our coats, bags, and yes, pizza boxes.
Another Cirillo street style shot.
Today, some of his work will officially be between hardcovers. Watching New York: Street Style A to Z (Abrams) collects highlights from several years of street shooting, categorized alphabetically from Accessories to Zebra Print. The colorful volume was inspired by Bill Cunningham’s weekly street style dispatches (Cunningham has been a huge influence on him; the account began as a way to honor his work after his passing) And it even boasts a foreword penned by Watching New York follower Gigi Hadid. “I was looking for one line from her, you know what I mean?” Cirillo marvels. “Anything that you can give me.” Instead, she wrote a touching mini-essay about what his work means to her.
Johnny Cirillo Watching New York: Street Style A to Z
Johnny Cirillo Watching New York: Street Style A to Z
The alphabetical approach showcases the survey-like nature of Cirillo’s oeuvre, which documents city life in the uncertain 2020s and celebrates the thrifted, bricolaged looks of passers-by. The account grew to include video, and a robust TikTok presence, after Cirillo realized there was more to the story. He would look at images by other photographers, he says, “and wonder, ‘What happened right before this? What happened right after this?’” Now, he often interviews his subjects about their personal stories.
A Western look from frequent Watching New York subject Darnell.
Watching New York watchers have since grown attached to some of the account’s recurring characters, like a young man named Darnell, who shared his story of growing up in foster care. “He had some dark times, but he came out the other side a better person. I got a lot of messages about that. So did he. And I still do, actually,” Cirillo tells me. Another subject people responded to was a designer named Monday Blues, who was wearing garments made from coffee bean bags and explained that they had previously been unhoused. As a necessity, they fashioned clothes from discarded Starbucks coffee bean bags. Later, that experience would inspire their fashion designs.
A group of women on Galentine’s Day, photographed for Watching New York.
Conversations about fashion, Cirillo has found, can give way to something deeper. “You’d be surprised by the amount of people who will just open up to you when you approach them kindly and in a curious way: ‘Hey, you look really cool. Can you talk to me about what’s going on and what’s your story?’ All of a sudden you start getting to the real meat and potatoes, which is deep inside of all of us: sadness, being lonely, fighting through it, getting better, being stronger, having the bravery to continue.”
The Bell brothers, photographed by Johnny Cirillo.
Until recently, Cirillo hadn’t been to many big cities besides his proving ground of New York. A fear of flying kept him from traveling widely, until recently his wife, he says lovingly, “gave me a kick in the ass. She surprised me with a flight and drove me to the airport.” Since then, he’s been to Paris twice.
So, what’s his review of the City of Light? “Paris is beautiful, the fashion is incredible, and the people are amazing, but it’s much more subtle and reserved. In New York, you never know what you’re going to get—or what somebody made out of a coffee bean bag.”
FAQs
A fashion photographer's job is to capture the uniqueness of each model, garment and set by highlighting their truly important qualities. Fashion photography should not be thought of as just photos of clothes, but more so the feeling it creates and inspires about your brand in your target audience.
What is fashion photography explanations? ›
Fashion photography is a genre of photography that portrays clothing and other fashion items. This sometimes includes haute couture garments. It typically consists of a fashion photographer taking pictures of a dressed model in a photographic studio or an outside setting.
What are two early examples of social photography in publication? ›
Thomas Annan published "Photographs of the Old Closes and Streets of Glasgow, 1868-77", a documentation of the slum areas in Glasgow. Yet another example is the book published by Smith and Thompson in 1877 "Street Life in London", which also documented social life.
How does fashion photography affect society? ›
Since the medium's early days, it has influenced how people view themselves and the world around them. Photographers and publishing houses have used the medium to challenge racial stereotypes, gender norms, political ideologies, perceptions of beauty and more. Inclusivity is now more prevalent than its ever been.
Why is fashion important 3 reasons? ›
It is crucial to history and highlights how life was and where it is going now. Clothing has shown to serve a purpose and is a basic human need. Fashion, throughout history, has helped groups of people break society normal, solidify traditions, increase confidence, spark creativity, tell stories, and make a difference.
What is the relationship between fashion and photography? ›
Photography brings fashion to life, making it more relatable, desirable, and ultimately, more influential. Furthermore, photography plays a crucial role in the branding and marketing of fashion.
What is the difference between fashion photography and photography? ›
Portrait photography aims to capture the personality, expression, and emotion of the subject, while fashion photography focuses on showcasing the clothing, accessories, and style of the model. Portrait photography is more personal and intimate, while fashion photography is more commercial and editorial.
When did fashion photography become popular? ›
Though the earliest known fashion photographs date back to the 1850s, in the court of Napoleon III, the use of photography as an advertising tool did not become popular until the early 20th century, when fashion itself became accessible to a wider audience.
Why did fashion photography start? ›
It is believed that fashion photography as a genre of photographic art was born in the XIX century, thanks to fashion magazines such as La mode practique (1898), Harper Bazar (1867) and Vogue (1892). These magazines were in turn established due to the achievements made in the field of photography and screen printing.
What is photography social? ›
Social photography is a subcategory of photography focusing upon the technology, interaction and activities of individuals who take photographs.
Documentary photography is a style of photography that provides a straightforward and accurate representation of people, places, objects and events, and is often used in reportage.
When did photography start? ›
Photography was invented in 1822 when the first photograph was taken by Joseph Nicéphore Niépce (pronounced “nyeps”). Unfortunately, the first examples of Niépce's work have been lost to history, but he still holds the title for the oldest surviving photograph, taken in 1826.
What was the golden age of fashion photography? ›
1950–1959 The Golden Age of Fashion Photography
In the period following World War II, American photographers Richard Avedon and Irving Penn brought different but equally arresting approaches to the latest fashions from Paris: Avedon's pictures were dynamic, while Penn's were quietly elegant.
Does fashion affect society? ›
Fashion empowers individuals to communicate their cultural identity and heritage to the world. Fashion shapes social identity. Specific clothes worn can signal affiliations, beliefs and social status. Subcultures, like punk or hip-hop, have been defined and united by their unique fashion aesthetics.
How has fashion photography evolved? ›
The History of Fashion Photography
The earliest fashion photographs can be traced back to the 1850s, in the court of Napoleon III, reflecting the style of dress among the rich in France. However, fashion photography did not become popular until the early 20th century, when fashion became accessible to a wider audience.
What are some advantages of fashion photographer? ›
Benefits
- Creative Job.
- Opportunity to work with big brands.
- Meet new people.
- Enhancement of Creative Skills.
- Handsome Salary.
Fashion is an integral part of society and culture, serving as a means of expression and reflecting the values, beliefs, and traditions of different communities. It is more than just clothing; it includes hairstyles, makeup trends, and even body modifications like tattoos or piercings.
